Star Bright Baby Quilt

Intermediate level quilt tutorial for a night sky inspired baby quilt. The finished quilt measures approximately 42″ x 54″. I do not pre-wash my fabrics. I wash and dry the whole quilt after it is complete. I use 100% cotton fabric and batting to ensure shrinkage is consistent through the whole blanket.

This quilt was made with love for my nephew.

Fabric Requirements

• 3/4 yard light blue fabric
• 1/4 medium blue fabric
• 3/4 yard dark blue fabric
• 1 yard blue printed fabric (I used two 1/2 yard cuts of different prints)
• 1/4 yard light yellow fabric
• 1/2 yard medium yellow fabric
• 1/4 yard printed yellow fabric
• Cotton Batting- crib size
• Quilt backing fabric (approx. 1 3/4 yards x 44″-45″)

I used the quilt block reference book- The New QUICK & EASY Block Tool! – 110 Quilt Blocks in 5 Sizes with Project Ideas as a guide to making the star blocks. For the large stars, follow the 12″ “Diamond Star” instructions in the book, it yields a 12.5″ unfinished block. Once sewn together with a 1/4″ seam allowance on all sides, it will measure 12″ finished. For the smaller stars, refer to the 6″ “Friendship Star,” it yields a 6.5″ unfinished block. Once sewn together with a 1/4″ seam allowance on all sides, it will measure 6″ finished. Since these block designs are not my original patterns, I won’t be sharing step-by-step instructions here. However, I do highly recommend purchasing this guide. It is an easy to follow, no-math, quick reference quilt block guide, that I have fallen in love with.

This is my first quilt that I made without being able to run to Joann when I needed extra supplies. I shopped online at A Thrift Notion and My Favorite Quilt Shop for the majority of my supplies. I also pulled from my own scrap pile as needed.

I used a different batting than I am used to. I bought Hobbs Tuscany Unbleached Cotton Batting Crib 45″x60″, because it was on sale. Quilting with this batting was difficult. The batting was pulled through to the outside of the quilt as I was top-stitching. This created extra fuzz that was not visually appealing. Most of this fuzz came off in the wash, but I am worried about how this will wear over time with repeated washing.

*For other supplies check out my “Favorite Tools” post under my “Etc.” category. Here I share all of my favorite tools used to complete my projects.

Creating the Blocks

Use a 1/4″ seam when sewing your quilt together.

Please refer to The New QUICK & EASY Block Tool! – 110 Quilt Blocks in 5 Sizes with Project Ideas reference book for directions specific to the “Diamond Star” and the “Friendship Star.” As these block patterns are not my own creation, I cannot provide the cutting requirements or assembly instructions for them.

• 4 – 12″ “Diamond Star” Blocks (instructions yield 12.5″ block)
• 8 – 6″ “Friendship Star” Blocks (instructions yield 6.5″ block)
• 24 – 6.5″ squares

1. Creating the “Diamond Star” blocks: Follow the requirements for the 12″ block. To create the “Diamond Star” blocks, I used 2 different blue printed background fabrics and 2 different shades of yellow fabric. A total of 4 of these blocks are needed for the quilt (2 blocks from each background fabric). The light and medium yellow fabric are seen on each block.

Press your seams in between steps, this helps ensure nice clean lines and uniform blocks.

• Note: By following the instructions for the 12″ block, you will be creating a block that measures 12.5″, which is what you want.

2. Creating the “Friendship Star” blocks: Follow the requirements for the 6″ block in the reference guide. To create the “Friendship Star” blocks, I used the 2 blue printed background fabrics; light, medium and dark solid blue background fabrics; the medium yellow fabric; and the printed yellow fabric. A total of 8 of these blocks are needed for the quilt.

The blocks that used the blue printed fabrics for the background, used the solid medium yellow fabric for the star. The blocks that used the solid blue fabrics for the background, used the printed yellow fabric for the star. See the image below to see each block.

Press your seams in between steps, this helps ensure nice clean lines and uniform blocks.

• Note: By following the instructions for the 6″ block, you will be creating a block that measures 6.5″, which is what you want.

3. Making 12.5″ squares from “Friendship Star” blocks: Cut 16- 6.5″ squares from the solid blue background fabrics and 8- 6.5″ squares from the printed blue background fabrics. Each of these blocks uses 2 solid background and 2 printed background squares. These squares should be placed diagonally from each other. You will need to create a four 12.5″ four-patch blocks using 2 solid squares, 1 printed square, and 1 “Friendship Star” block with a printed background. Then, you will need to create four 12.5″ blocks using 2 printed squares, 1 solid square, and 1 “Friendship Star” block with a solid background.

• Be sure to press your seams!

At this point you should have a total of 12- 12.5″ blocks; 4- “Diamond Star” blocks and 8- four-patch blocks.

Quilt Top

Organize all of your blocks and play with the layout until you find one you like. I like to do this step on the floor, but a kitchen table also works. Some people use design boards that hang on the wall for this step.

There are 3 columns and 4 rows. Each row has one “Diamond Star” block and two four-patch blocks. This is the layout I landed on. I wanted something that looked a little random and scattered.

Sew all of the blocks together and press your seams. I like to alternate which way I am pressing my seams so the seams nest. Nesting seams makes sewing and quilting easier because it creates less bulk. For example, I pressed my seams to the left on row 1 and 3. I pressed the seams on row 2 and 4 to the right.

Then add a border. I used 3.5″ strips of the light blue fabric for my border.

Quilt Back

For the quilt back I used a large remnant and some other larger yellow scraps that I had in my scrap pile. Using yardage for the quilt back is an easier alternative if you are not looking for another project. You will need at least 1 3/4 yards of 44-45″ width fabric for the back. That will ensure you have enough fabric to accommodate quilting and trimming.

I challenged myself and created mitered corners on the border around the large remnant. The back of the quilt ended up using almost the rest of my yellow fabric. So satisfying! The top and bottom use a deep golden yellow, while the sides are made of the same medium yellow on the stars. The middle remnant is the same fabric I used for the printed “Friendship Star” blocks.

I used this website to learn how to miter corners. It was a little tricky because of the quilt size, but not too terribly difficult.

Quilt Sandwich and Top Stitching

To make the quilt sandwich, I lay my backing fabric on the ground. Next, I place the batting on top. Finally, I add the quilt top. Be sure to leave at least an extra 2″ of backing and batting on each side. If you are using a long arm to quilt your blanket, you need to leave an extra 4″ on each side. For this project, I cut it pretty close with the extra space margin. I had about an extra 1″ on all sides.

I have found that it is helpful to tape the bottom layer to the ground. This keeps it flat after I have smoothed it over. Keeping all layers wrinkle free is important when it comes time to adding the top stitching details. Any wrinkles or puckers will be permanently stitched into the quilt. You might have to fiddle with the layers for a while in order to get everything flat.

You can use the image below as a guide and great visual for setting up your quilt sandwich.

I baste the layers together with curved safety pins. Then, I draw lines using tailor’s chalk to mark where I want to quilt. I highly suggest marking where you want to stitch, especially if you are doing straight lines.

For this blanket, I decided to machine stitch diagonally in the non-star squares. I also machine stitched in the ditch around all of the star blocks and on the border. This means I stitched directly on the seam line so it is hidden on the front. Finally, I hand stitched 1/4″ from the seam inside the stars.

I wanted to do something simple and striking that highlighted the stars.

When machine quilting, be sure to use a walking foot. This ensures that all of the layers advance together and decreases how much the bottom layer moves.

For this quilt, I used a quilting frame for the first time. I think this was super helpful when hand stitching, as it kept the blanket still and wrinkle free. I found mine during a closing sale at Joann at a great price. Items like this are nice to have, but not vital to quilting.

Binding and Label

To create the binding, I needed five 2.5″ x WOF pieces. I used the remainder of my dark blue solid fabric for this step. I machine sew the binding to the top of the quilt using a walking foot, but hand stitch the binding to the back of the quilt. This is more time consuming, but I can see where I am sewing and do not have to “stitch in the ditch” or sew blind.

Finally, I add my quilt label! No quilt is complete without a label!

I created this label using scraps from this quilt and white fabric from my scrap stash. I typically use double-sided fusible interfacing and hand stitching to attach the label to the quilt’s back. Unfortunately, I did not have fusible interfacing this time around, so I used lots of pins and hand stitched the label to the quilt back, being sure to not stitch all the way through the front of the quilt.

To write on the fabric, I used a Tulip fabric marker. I left the label over night to dry before washing the whole quilt. I used a pencil to create lines so any writing was straight. The pencil lines wash out easily.

For this label, I added a sweet message and the year the blanket was made.

All done! I like to wash my quilts on a gentle cycle and dry it on low heat before giving them away as gifts. Sometimes, the first wash exposes weak seams. By washing the quilt before I gift it to someone, I can find any problem areas and make any necessary repairs.

If you are giving your quilt away as a gift, be sure to include care instructions that match the fabric used.

Optional Last Step

Create a matching pillow! I had enough leftover to create a cute star pillow with a ruffle border. I love using baby quilt scraps to make a matching pillow or stuffed animal. It adds such a sweet bonus gift and keeps me from hoarding more scraps!

Celestial Stained Glass

Intermediate level quilt tutorial for a stained glass inspired throw blanket. The finished quilt measures approximately 55″x 72″. I do not pre-wash my fabrics. I wash and dry the whole quilt after it is complete. I use 100% cotton fabric and batting to ensure shrinkage is consistent through the whole blanket.

This quilt was made with love for my best friend to celebrate her great accomplishments. I hope this blanket keeps you warm through all seasons of your life.

Fabric Requirements

• 12 fat quarters
• Approx. 2 yards of solid fabric for binding and sashing
• 2 1/2 yards fabric backing
• Pre-cut cotton batting- approx. twin sized

In regards to the fat quarters, I bought 2 fat quarter packs (each with 5 different fabrics) and 2 single fat quarters. I bought these on sale at Joann’s closing sale near me.

The sashing fabric I used is black Kona cotton that I bought by the bolt. I do not typically care about fabric brands. However, I did notice the difference between using this fabric and my typical sale cotton. The Kona cotton feels more sturdy, which helps to keep the shape of the blocks.

For the backing fabric, I bought 2 1/2 yards of a solid pink/orange fabric from A Thrifty Notion. With Joann closing, I am trying to find other affordable fabric options. A Thrifty Notion offers second hand and dead stock fabric and notions at a discount. Shopping here was very easy and affordable. I also used scraps from the quilt top to make a pieced strip for the middle of the quilt back.

I tried different batting than normal to for this project. I bought Quilter’s Dream 100% Natural Cotton Batting in the twin size. This is bigger than needed, so I saved the excess for future projects. The batting felt high quality and washed well. This batting was more expensive than most of what I buy. I had a coupon, so it felt worth it to try. Overall I was a happy with this new batting. When I opened the package I could feel why it was pricier. The batting seemed softer, but also stronger.

*For other supplies check out my “Favorite Tools” post under my “Etc.” category. Here I share all of my favorite tools used to complete my projects. For this project I used my specialty 10.5″ square ruler.

Making Cuts

Below is the layout for this quilt. There are two block types. Block A’s finished size is 10.5″ x 10.5″. Block B’s finished size is 5″ x 10.5″. Each row is made up of 4- Block A’s and 1- Block B. The sashing in the blocks and around the blocks are made from 1.5″ strips of black fabric.

From each fat quarter, I cut 2- 10.5″ squares and 1- 5.5″ square. A total of 24- 10.5″ squares and 6- 5.5″ squares are necessary for the quilt top. I used leftover scraps to complete the quilt back.

• 24- 10.5″ squares in various colors/prints
• 6- 5.5″ squares in various colors/prints
• 6- 1.5″ x 5″ in black
• 24- 1.5″ x 10.5″ in black
• 14- 1.5″ x WOF in black
• 6- 3.5″ x WOF in black
• 6- 2.5″ x WOF in black

Approximately eight of the 1.5″ x WOF strips are used sashing on Block A. Six of the 1.5″ x WOF strips are used for in between quilt rows.

The 6- 3.5″ x WOF strips in black are used for the border. The 6- 2.5″ x WOF strips are used for the binding.

For the sashing, I cut 1.5″ x WOF strips from the black Kona Fabric. Each of the diagonals in the blocks are different lengths. So, I work with the same WOF strip until it is all used up. I do this instead of pre-cutting the strips.

Creating the Blocks

Block A

Block A requires 4- 10.5″ fabric blocks (all different prints or colors) and 1.5″ strips of sashing fabric. One 1.5″ x WOF strip can be used for 3-4 blocks.

Working with 4 squares at a time is easiest in my opinion. Four fabric squares yields 4 finished blocks.

Take 2 squares, line them up on top of each other. Cut at any angle.

Align the bottom fabric with the top fabric. Mark the middle of the block on each fabric. I used white tailor’s chalk for this step. The mark does not need to be perfectly center. It acts as a guide for lining up the sashing fabric.

Shift the fabric to allow enough room for the 1.5″ sashing strip. Mark the black strip at the same points that the colored fabric is marked. Line up the marks. Then, with right sides together, sew with a 1/4″ seam. Repeat this for the remaining 2 fabric squares.

I cut off the remainder of the sashing strip after I have sewn my seams. Because each of the diagonals are different lengths, I work with the same WOF strip, cutting off the excess until the whole strip is used up. I save the smaller scraps from this strip to use for Block B’s sashing.

Press the seams. I pressed my seams towards the colored fabric. The direction you press the seams is not very important for this step. As you can see, we have created 4 unique, two-paneled, blocks so far.

In order to give the block four different panels, I repeated the above steps. Align 2 alternate blocks on the cutting mat as best as possible. Due to the different angles the blocks are cut on, they may not align perfectly. Be sure the sashing strips are lined up horizontally. Cut at any angle.

Position the bottom block with the top block as best as possible. Mark the middle on each side. This mark does not need to be perfectly center. It acts as a guide for lining up the sashing fabric. Shift the fabric to allow enough room for the 1.5″ sashing strip. Mark the strip at the same points that the colored fabric is marked. Line up the marks with right sides together, sew with a 1/4″ seam.

Press the seams.

After the seams are pressed, square up the block to 10.5″ x 10.5″. Adding the stained glass strips causes the blocks to become slightly misshaped. I have a 10.5″ square ruler, which was extremely helpful for this step.

A total of 24 Block A’s are need for this quilt.

Block B

To create Block B, I chose to make all 5″ squares at once and then alternate them through out the blocks so each block was unique. For the purpose of instruction I show 4- 5.5″ squares being used.

Each block is comprised of at least 2 individual 5.5″ square, 1.5″ sashing, and 1- 5″ x 1.5″ strip.

Pull your 5.5″ squares from your cut pile.

The steps to create the top and bottom squares in Block B are nearly the same as for Block A. Align two different squares. Cut at any angle. Align the bottom fabric with the top fabric. Mark the middle of the block on each fabric. Shift the fabric to allow enough room for the 1.5″ sashing strip. Mark the black strip at the same points that the colored fabric is marked. Line up the marks. Then, with right sides together, sew with a 1/4″ seam.

For Block B, I only use one strip of sashing per square.

When the sashing strips are sewn into the squares, cut the squares down to 5″ blocks.

Take 2 different 5″ squares and connect them with a 1.5″ x 5″ strip. Measure and ensure the block is 5″ x 10.5″.

A total of 6 Block B’s are need for this quilt.

Quilt Top

Layout out the blocks, flipping and flopping the blocks until you find a design that works. Below is the general layout I used for the quilt. Each row contains 4- Block A’s and 1- Block B. I put Block B in a different place in each row.

Above you can see the exact layout I used for the quilt top.

Connect the blocks according to the layout with 1.5″ x 10.5″ black strips in between. Do not add these strips to the outsides. Press your seams.

Connect the new rows using the 1.5″ x WOF strips. Do not add these strips to the top or bottom of the quilt, just in between the rows. For this step I used about 6- 1.5″ x WOF strips. Press your seams.

Once the main body of the quilt top was complete, I added a 3.5″ black border all the way around the quilt. I used 6- 3.5″ x WOF strips for this step.

Quilt Back

For this quilt I challenged myself to create a pieced quilt back. I bought 2 1/2 yards of pink/orange fabric with the intention of using it for the back. While this was long enough, standard fabric is 44″-45″ inches wide. This means the fabric I picked out would not wide enough. Instead of buying more fabric, I wanted to create a unique quilted back with the scrap accumulated from the front. This task was fairly easy to do and meant my scraps would be used instead of sitting in storage.

For this part of the project I used:

• 2 1/2 yards of solid fabric
• 28- 5″ squares cut from fat quarter scraps from the quilt top
• 26- 1.5″ x 5″ strips in black
• 2- 5″ x WOF strips in black
• 4- 1.5″ x WOF strips in black

I cut the 2 1/2 yard fabric down the middle width wise. In other words, I created 2 panels that were both 22″ x 2 1/2 yards.

To create the middle panel, I sewed 14- 5″ squares together with 1.5″ x 5″ black strips in between to create the right side. I did this twice to create both sides of the panel.

I connected 2- 1.5″ x WOF on the short side. I did this twice, creating 2 super long strips. I also connected the 2- 5″ x WOF strips on the short side.

Sew all the middle panel pieces together. The order for this is: 1.5″ black strip, 5″ pieced block strip, 5″ black strip, 5″ pieced block strip, 1.5″ black strip.

Lastly I sewed each of the panels together to create the entire quilt back. The order of the panels is: pink/orange panel, middle pieced panel, pink/ orange panel.

Press the seams. I pressed the seams towards the middle to avoid shadows through the pink/orange fabric.

Quilt Sandwich and Top Stitching

To make the quilt sandwich, I lay my backing fabric on the ground. Next, I place the batting on top. Finally, I add the quilt top. Be sure to leave at least an extra 2″ of backing and batting on each side. If you are using a long arm to quilt your blanket, you need to leave an extra 4″ on each side.

I have that it is helpful to tape the bottom layer to the ground. This keeps it flat after I have smoothed it over. Keeping all layers wrinkle free is important when it comes time to adding the top stitching details. Any wrinkles or puckers will be sewn into the blanket during the quilting process.

Below is a great visual for setting up your quilt sandwich.

I baste the layers together with curved safety pins. Then, I draw lines using tailor’s chalk to mark where I want to quilt. For this blanket, I decided to do simple lines through the main body of the quilt. I used black thread for the top, and pink/orange thread for the back. The quilt is already fairly busy, so I wanted the thread to blend in.

I also added a decorative stitch on the border. I found a multi-colored spool of thread at Joann’s closing sale. This is something I never would have bought normally, but because it was on sale, I decided to give it a try. I think it gave a perfect pop to the border.

Finishing Touches

Binding and Label

To create the binding, I needed 6- 2.5″ x WOF pieces. I machine sew the binding to the top of the quilt using a walking foot, but hand stitch the binding to the back of the quilt. This is more time consuming, but I can see where I am sewing and do not have to “stitch in the ditch” or sew blind.

Finally, I add my quilt label! I created this label using scraps from this quilt and a label I bought from Missouri Star Quilt Co. I used fusible interfacing and hand stitching to attach the label to the quilt’s back. To write on the fabric, I used a Tulip fabric marker. I left the label over night to dry before washing the whole quilt. I attach the label by hand, being sure to not stitch all the way through the front of the quilt.

For this label, I added the quilt’s name, a sweet message, the year the blanket was a made, and I signed my name.

All done! I like to wash my quilts on a gentle cycle and dry it on low heat before giving them away as gifts. Sometimes, the first wash exposes weak seams. By washing the quilt before I gift it to someone, I can find any problem areas and make any necessary repairs.

If you are giving your quilt away as a gift, be sure to include care instructions that match the fabric used.

Nessie Baby Quilt

Beginner friendly tutorial for a beautiful Loch Ness Monster inspired baby quilt. The finished quilt measures approximately 40″ x 40″. I do not pre-wash my fabrics. I wash and dry the whole quilt after it is complete. I use 100% cotton fabric to ensure shrinkage is consistent through the whole blanket.

A close friend is having her third baby boy! To celebrate this exciting news, I am making her a quilt. She gave me no direction or style preferences for the quilt, so I was left to my own imagination. On Black Friday 2024, I was at Joann Fabrics with my coupons and found some of the cutest novelty quilt fabric. There were little Loch Ness Monsters on it! I fell in love with this fabric and found coordinating fabrics to make the baby quilt.

For the quilt pattern, I was inspired by a quilt I saw on Pinterest. There are no official instructions attached, so I went to working on my own. Below is the link to the Pinterest post that inspired me.

Fabric Requirements

Below is a list of the fabric measurements used. I am notorious for overbuying fabric. However, this time I found I had just enough. I was even able use up some scraps from my scrap pile!

For Block A- I bought 3/4 yards of the Nessie fabric, but 1/2 yard should be enough. This block lends itself nicely to using scraps, especially to fill the center of Block A. I fussy cut my fabric to ensure I could highlight a cute sea monster in every block. This method does make a lot of small scraps. To see more on how I fussy cut, scroll down to the “Making Cuts” section.

Additionally, I bought 4 fat quarters- 2 navy blue fat quarters and 2 teal fat quarters. These are used for the border pieces in Block A. I alternate the border colors on the quilt to make it more interesting.

For Block B, I bought 2- 1/2 yard cuts. This was almost not enough fabric. I had to sew together some of the scraps in order to cut the remaining 10″ squares. Half of a yard is 18″, so I was not able to cut a second row of 10″ squares, without sewing together the 8″ remnants. On the bright side, sewing the remnants left me with significantly less waste afterwards. If you do not want to deal with sewing together the remnants, I would suggest buying 2- 3/4 yard cuts.

Block A

Center Fabric: 3/4 yard

Border fabric: 4 fat quarters

Block B

x2: 1/2- 3/4 yard cuts of fabric in contrasting colors; I used white and teal

Other Fabric

1 1/2 yards backing fabric; I bought 1 3/4 yards but 1 1/2 is sufficient

x4- WOF x 1.5″ for the quilt border and x4- WOF x 2.5″ for the quilt binding; together this is approximately 1/2-3/4 yards (not pictured) I had a big enough scrap to use for both the border and binding.

Batting (not pictured) I used 100% cotton batting leftover from a previous project to complete this quilt. You need at least 44″ x 44″ of batting.

Scrap amount of fusible interfacing (optional)

*For other supplies check out my “Favorite Tools” post under my “Etc.” category. Here I share all of my favorite tools used to complete my projects.

Making Cuts

Below are the cut requirements along with an easy visual of the quilt. To create this visual aide I used Visual Graph Paper.

When I was first making this pattern, I did the math incorrectly and cut my pieces based on flawed math. Luckily, the pieces were too big and I was able to cut them down to the correct size and did not need to buy more fabric. The measurements in the graph below are the correct measurements. Just as a PSA, some of the photos may contain pieces with the wrong measurements. Please use the measurements in the graph below. I made the cutting and measuring mistakes so you don’t have to!

Fussy cutting is a technique that refers to purposefully cutting specific patterns or images to use in your project. This technique can create a lot of waste, so if you are using this technique be sure to purchase some extra fabric. I fussy cut the centers to Block A. To do this I used a piece of card stock and cut out a 5.5″ square. This created a frame that allowed me to see exactly what I would be cutting out. I then traced the inside with a pencil and cut out my blocks. Alternatively, a clear square template in the correct size can be used. This technique takes more time and patience than using a rotary cutter and cutting ruler, but I think the results are worth it for this project.

In the picture below, I am using a 6.5″ square frame. As stated before, I originally did my math incorrectly and the center block actually needs to be 5.5″. However, I use same technique for fussy cutting regardless of the center block size.

I cut out the rest of my fabric using my rotary cutter and mat. I was able to cut a few extra pieces for Block A’s center and border. However, I was able to cut exactly 12 teal and 12 white squares for Block B. These squares will be sewn together then cut. Each set of 1 teal and 1 white square yields 2 complete HST blocks.

Sewing it Together

Block A

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1. Sew sides short border pieces to center block, with right sides together. Press to dark side.
2. Sew longer top and bottom pieces to the block, with right sides together. Press to dark side.

Block B

For Block B, I am using the two at a time HST (half square triangle) technique. I cut my initial squares to 10″ with the intention of cutting the HST to 8″. I like to give myself plenty of room for error when making these blocks. At minimum, 8 7/8″ blocks must be cut in order to create the correct 8″ HST.

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1. On the wrong side of your lighter fabric, draw a line from one corner of the square to the opposite corner. I just used a pencil, it washes out very easily. Tailor’s chalk also works very well.
2. Stack a teal and white square with right sides together.
3. Using a 1/4″ seam allowance, sew on each side of the marked line.
4. Cut on the line. This will leave your with 2 HST’s.
5. Press the seams to the darker fabric. Be sure not to pull the fabric while pressing it, this will warp the block. HST’s are sewn on the bias, making them prone to warping.
6. Cut the block to 8″ x 8″. I purposefully make my HST’s larger than needed with the intention of cutting them down to the correct size. HST’s can be a little tricky and the measurements for them need to be very precise. I give myself more room for error by intentionally making them slightly bigger than needed.

Quilt Top

Once all the blocks are sewn, I laid them out in the order I wanted. I was worried the alternating Block A colors would look funny, but I love how it turned out!

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I like to sew the horizontal rows first, then connect all the rows. I add the border last.

After each row, I press the seams in alternating the directions. In other words, I pressed the seams for row 1, 3, and 5 towards the right. For rows 2 and 4 I press the seams towards the left. By doing this, the seams nest when I sew all of the rows together, creating less bulk and making it easier to sew.

I sew all my rows together, ensuring all of my seams nest. Once this is complete, I press the horizontal seams all in the same direction (up or down).

Quilt Sandwich and Top Stitching

To make the quilt sandwich, I like to lay my backing fabric on the ground, followed by the batting and finally the quilt top. Be sure to leave at least an extra 2″ of backing and batting on each side. If you are using a long arm to quilt your blanket, you need to leave an extra 4″ on each side.

I used leftover batting from a previous project, so it was a wonky size. The scrap I used was very long, but not very wide. However, I challenged myself at the start of this project to use up scraps instead of buying extra. To fix this problem, I cut the batting into two pieces, then sewed them back together with a flat seam using a stretch zigzag stitch. This means, instead of putting right sides together and sewing using a 1/4″ seam like I did for the rest of the blanket, I butt the two scraps against each other and used the stretch zigzag stitch to keep them together. In other words, the batting scraps are side by side instead of stacked on top of each other. Using a flat seam diminishes bulk in the quilt, making it easier to add the top stitching later.

Below is a great visual for setting up your quilt sandwich.

I baste the layers together with curved safety pins, then draw lines using tailor’s chalk to mark where I want to quilt. I quilted diagonal lines that go both ways through Block B. On Block A, I used a decorative wave stitch in the middle of the border. I used a light blue thread for the top stitching throughout. I loved this choice because it blended in with Block B, but added an interesting pop of color to the navy and teal Block A.

When quilting all of the layers together, I use a walking foot. This ensures that all of the layers move together with minimal shifting.

Once all of the quilting/ top stitching is complete, cut off the extra batting and backing fabric.

Finishing touches

Binding and Label

To create the binding, I needed 4- 2.5″ x WOF pieces. I machine sew the binding to the top of the quilt using a walking foot, but hand stitch the binding to the back of the quilt. This is more time consuming, but I can see where I am sewing and do not have to “stitch in the ditch” or sew blind.

Finally, I add my quilt label! I created this label using scraps from this quilt. I used fusible interfacing and tight back stitching to raw edge appliqué a sea monster and sail boat to the label. To write on the fabric, I used a Tulip fabric marker. I left the label over night to dry before washing the whole quilt. I attach the label by hand, being sure to not stitch all the way through the front of the quilt.

For this label, I added a sweet message, the year the blanket was a made (which is also the year the baby will be born), and I signed my name.

All done! I like to wash my quilts on a gentle cycle and dry it on low heat before giving them away as gifts. Sometimes, the first wash exposes weak seams. By washing the quilt before I gift it to someone, I can find any problem areas and make any necessary repairs.

If you are giving your quilt away as a gift, be sure to include care instructions that match the fabric used.

If you made it this far, be sure to like the post and leave a comment with any questions or suggestions!

Pooh Bear Baby Quilt

Beginner friendly tutorial to help you create a beautiful baby quilt. The finished quilt measures about 42″ x 42″. I do not pre-wash my fabrics. I wash the whole quilt after it is complete. I use all cotton fabric to ensure shrinkage is consistent through the whole blanket.

A little birdie told me someone was having a baby! Time to drag out the sewing machine and get quilting. The family is planning on creating a vintage Winnie the Pooh nursery, so a naturally I had to create a Winnie the Pooh quilt to match.

The main panel for this quilt is the “Classic Pooh and Hunny Pot Panel”  from Raspberry Creek Fabrics. I changed the scale to 20.00×20.00, selected the “Cotton Quilt Weight 42″ 4 oz 100%” option, and entered a quantity of 1. A quantity of 1 is about half a yard of fabric, which contained two Pooh Bear blocks. I used one block for the center panel of the quilt and used the extra to make a matching pillow/ stuffed animal. I love using my quilt scraps to make a matching plushie.

For the main body of the quilt I used 4 different yellow fabrics, each measuring about half of a yard. If you are working on a budget be sure to check out your fabric store remnants sections! Two of these four fabrics I got at a major discount because they were remnants. I got these fabrics at Joann’s and Hobby Lobby.

For the mint borders and binding, I bought 1 yard of fabric from Joann’s, but only used about half of a yard. I don’t mind buying a little bit of extra fabric especially if it is a solid color, because solid scraps are easy to use up in other projects.

I used an 80/20 cotton/polyester blend batting for this quilt. I bought a pre-cut crib sized batting package. Any batting can be used. Some people like to use 100% cotton, some prefer 100% polyester. I tend to favor this 80/20 blend. It is affordable and acts very similar to 100% cotton battings. I buy pre-cut battings for convenience reasons, but it can be bought by the yard as well.

The backing is a mint gingham print with a 44″ width from Joann’s. I bought 2 yards which was just enough for the back of the quilt and back of the plushie. On the back, I also attached a super cute quilt label which I bought through Etsy. It came as a set with 4 other adorable labels that I can use for future quilts. They are made of cotton canvas so they are very durable yet flexible. I just used a permanent fabric marker to write what I wanted and hand stitched to the back once the quilt was complete.

Fabric Requirements

• 1 panel cut to 18.5″x18.5″ sq
• 4- 1/2 yard cuts of different yellow fabrics
• 1 yard mint solid for borders and binding, 44″ width
• 2 yards of backing fabric, 44″ width
• 1 crib sized pre-cut batting package

Below are the cut requirements along with an easy visual of the quilt. To create this visual aide I used Visual Graph Paper.

*If you are making your own binding, cut 2 1/2″ strips of the solid mint fabric/ fabric 5.

Creating the Quilt

Start by cutting out 48- 5.5″ squares, 2″ strips (4- 2″x22″ or about half the width of fabric and 4- 2″x42″ or about the width of fabric), and cut your center panel to a 18.5″ square. I like to use a rotary cutter with my rotary mat and ruler, I feel like it is easiest and creates the most accurate cuts. However, you can also mark your squares with chalk and cut with regular fabric scissors if thats what you have.

Before sewing the blocks together, I always like to lay everything out on the floor to get a feel for how everything will look together. This is a great time to move around the blocks or change the pattern.

Once you are committed to a layout, it’s time to sew! With right sides together, using a 1/4″ seam, sew a 2″ x 22″ (or half width of fabric) strip to each side of the center panel. The strips will be slightly longer than necessary, trim off the excess. Press the seams towards the darker fabric.

For the yellow portion of the quilt, I divided the quilt into eight sections. Sections 1-4 are 8 blocks long and are the top and bottom of the quilt. Sections 5-8 are 4 blocks long and are the sides of the quilt. Sew the sections together using a 1/4″ seam. Press the seams.

Once the sections are complete, sew them to the panel. Sew the sides together first and then add the top and bottom. Press the seams.

The final step in completing the quilt top is to add the outer border. Using a 1/4″ seam, sew the 2″ x 42″ (or width of fabric) strips to the body. Just like the border to the center panel, the strips might be slightly longer. Be sure to cut off the excess.

Now it’s time to make your quilt sandwich. It is best to do this on a large flat surface. I like to lay everything out on the floor, but a big table would also make a great space.

Lay the backing fabric flat on the floor, with the right side of the fabric facing the ground. It is helpful to use masking tape to keep the fabric flat while other layers are being added. The fabric back should larger than the top by a few inches on all sides, especially if you are planning on machine quilting.

The batting layer is added next. Flatten out this layer as best as possible before adding the quilt top. The batting should also be a few inches larger than the quilt top on all sides.

Last, add your quilt top. Smooth out all the wrinkles.

Baste the layers together. You can use fabric glue, safety pins, fabric pins or basting stitches to do this. I am sure there are plenty of other ways to baste the layers together, these are just a few common ways. I like to use a combination of flat head quilting pins and curved basting pins.

Now it is time to quilt the layers together. I used a walking foot on my domestic sewing machine to quilt this blanket. I used a specialty stitch on the seams of the mint border pieces and a standard straight stitch to highlight the yellow blocks. Get creative with the stitching designs! I chose to stick with relatively simple stitch design for this quilt.

To finish the quilt, add the binding and a quilt label. For both of these steps I used hand stitching.

All done! I like to wash my quilts on a gentle cycle and dry it on medium to low heat before giving them away as gifts. Sometimes, the first wash exposes weak seams. By washing the quilt before I gift it to someone, I can find any problem areas and make any necessary repairs.

If you are giving your quilt away as a gift, be sure to include care instructions that match the fabric you used.